Monday, May 6, 2013
Street food in Can Tho
I forgot to mention the delicious street food we got to try. So unusual & tasty.
Good Stays & Eats
General Tip: if you don't know of a good place to eat in town, check Trip advisor and/or go to places that have a lot of locals.
Can Tho:
See earlier post about things to do in Can Tho.
Saigon:
Saigon, also known as Ho Chi Minh City, is the largest metropolitan area in the south. It's a major hub for import, exports, large & small businesses. It has possibly the best variety of good eats in all of Vietnam. Also because of it's proximity to the equator, it's hot hot hot year round. We were there in the cool time... averaging 90 F most days. But if you can bear the heat & humidity, there's lots to shop, eat & explore in the vast city.
We stayed at Hotel Nikko, which is a really nice 5 star hotel. It's expensive relative to Vietnam, but very affordable compared to US standards (& when booked through Agoda.com - almost 50% discount). It's a little far away from Chu Phap's as well as Cho Ben Thanh (you have to take a taxi everywhere but you're going to want to anyway since it's stinkin hot in the day time). Hotel Laundry is really expensive. You can ask the concierge for the nearby laundry place... about a block and a half away from the hotel... about 23,000 dong per kilo (1 dollar per 2 lbs)
We also stayed at the Silverland Grand Hotel & Spa - DO NOT stay here. It claims to be 4 stars... pish... more like 2.5-3 stars. Not worth the money, though it is walking distance to Cho Ben Thanh (Ben Thanh Market).
Hoi An:We stayed at Villa Hoa Su Frangipani (http://www.villahoasu.com) which is similar to living in paradise. The grounds are more luxurious than any place I'd been, in a comfortable, casual way. It's a bed & breakfast, though you can request that they make dinner for you... pretty delicious and affordable option.
Nha Trang:
We stayed at the Novotel Nha Trang hotel (also booked through Agoda.com). You have to upgrade or pay a certain price (look for it on Agoda) to get the ocean view rooms (really nice view of the South China Sea). It's right across from the beach & they have lounge chairs & towels for guests (get there early if you want a chair/umbrella as those get taken early in the morning. Good breakfast variety (usually comes with the hotel stay). The beach is nice & clean in this town & the water very swimmable.
Night life: Guava, Sailing Club
Alert- don't go to Vinpearl. It's a tourist trap, owned by a Viet-Russian expat, and really a cover up for a prostitution company. It's awful.
Hue: We didn't visit but on my next trip, I'm definitely headed here. They have the best cuisine in all of Vietnam, IMHO (in my humble opinion).
Ha Noi:
Very crowded, narrow, chaotic city. Cooler weather but much more smog than any other part of Vietnam. We didn't stay here long (2 nights), but we did have some delicious food (twice):
Chả Cá Lã Vọng on Chả Cá street. There are multiple restaurants of this name... you have to go to the one that looks kinda greenish... when you go upstairs (that's where all the dining takes place) you know you're at the right place if it's crowded. It's also a little dirty looking.
Ha Long Bay:We took a 3 day, 2 night (1 night stay on the boat, 1 night stay on Cat Ba island) cruise through Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay & Cat Ba Island. Really fun. www.vega-travel.com. We paid $332 as a couple for the Deluxe room. The other folks on the boat had the cheaper rooms... they seemed fine with their rooms too. There are certainly more up-scale junk boat cruises out there... You definitely get what you pay for. We liked this cruise because of the company (younger tourists around our age) and our tour guide Duc (hilarious).
The ride from Ha Noi to Ha Long Bay is a little rough if you get car sick easily (roads in vietnam can be slow, heavy congestion, a little tumultuous) try to get the front seat because otherwise, you're packed like sardines in the back. Some people left the cruise after only 2 days, though if you stay a 3rd day, you get to kayak/swim in the quieter Lan Ha Bay & also hike & bike around Cat Ba Island. Well worth it. The cruise also included food... the food on the boat was so-so. All the fried things were delicious. The others... so-so.
Sapa:
The trek from Ha Noi to Sapa is not for yuppies. It's an 8 hour slow, loud & bumpy overnight train ride to Lao Cai, and then a 1 hr windy drive from Lao Cai to Sapa. The restaurants we ate at were not particularly tasty & the Hmong people are terribly exploited... Eh, I would probably not venture back there again. You can get very cheap very good foot/shoulder/head hour-long massages for about $7. Pretty amazing.
Can Tho:
See earlier post about things to do in Can Tho.
Saigon:
Saigon, also known as Ho Chi Minh City, is the largest metropolitan area in the south. It's a major hub for import, exports, large & small businesses. It has possibly the best variety of good eats in all of Vietnam. Also because of it's proximity to the equator, it's hot hot hot year round. We were there in the cool time... averaging 90 F most days. But if you can bear the heat & humidity, there's lots to shop, eat & explore in the vast city.
We stayed at Hotel Nikko, which is a really nice 5 star hotel. It's expensive relative to Vietnam, but very affordable compared to US standards (& when booked through Agoda.com - almost 50% discount). It's a little far away from Chu Phap's as well as Cho Ben Thanh (you have to take a taxi everywhere but you're going to want to anyway since it's stinkin hot in the day time). Hotel Laundry is really expensive. You can ask the concierge for the nearby laundry place... about a block and a half away from the hotel... about 23,000 dong per kilo (1 dollar per 2 lbs)
We also stayed at the Silverland Grand Hotel & Spa - DO NOT stay here. It claims to be 4 stars... pish... more like 2.5-3 stars. Not worth the money, though it is walking distance to Cho Ben Thanh (Ben Thanh Market).
- Cục Gạch Quán - Amazingly delicious slightly expensive (but completely worth it) Vietnamese food. Everything here is delicious, but especially the bbq pork, fried tofu, sauteed squash blossoms, iced tea...
- the "cua rang me" place by Chu Phap's house (Quan 5)- Delicious Crab
- Ngọc Sủỏng (by the Tan Nhat Son airport, there are multiple in Saigon) - order the seafood eggroll & goi ca. So delicious!
- Trois Gourmands - Delicious, pricey french food
- the banh cuon place close to Chu Phap's house is super yum & cheap
- Must try the coffee shops by Chu Phap's house - Chu Phap & Thim Hien know all of the good places (Thuyen, & there's another one). Really good coffee & lovely ambiance.
- Vietnamese War Museum (meh - a lot of anti-American/pro-communist propoganda & gruesome photos)
Hoi An:We stayed at Villa Hoa Su Frangipani (http://www.villahoasu.com) which is similar to living in paradise. The grounds are more luxurious than any place I'd been, in a comfortable, casual way. It's a bed & breakfast, though you can request that they make dinner for you... pretty delicious and affordable option.
- Good Eats
- Lo Banh Bao Banh Vac, 533 Hai Ba Trung, Hoi An, Vietnam
- Things to order: Banh Bao, Banh Vac & Hoanh Thanh chien
- ask Tâm at Villa Hoa Su to take you to her favorite place to eat Mì Quảng
- DO NOT make clothing here, no matter how persuasive the folks are about the quality of Hoi An tailors. There are no Vera Wang up and comers here... it's all in the details & they don't specialize in details in Hoi An. You get what you pay for here.
- Do rent the mopeds from Villa Hoa Su and venture out into the town or drive along the coast towards Da Nang. It's fun & relatively safe. Avoid staying out too late on the mo-ped... opt for taxi's after sun-down.
- Do walk around the old part of the town and check out the historic family homes "Nhà Cổ". You can buy tickets in town.
- Ride the bikes down to the beach and hang out.. beware of strong rip tides.
Nha Trang:
We stayed at the Novotel Nha Trang hotel (also booked through Agoda.com). You have to upgrade or pay a certain price (look for it on Agoda) to get the ocean view rooms (really nice view of the South China Sea). It's right across from the beach & they have lounge chairs & towels for guests (get there early if you want a chair/umbrella as those get taken early in the morning. Good breakfast variety (usually comes with the hotel stay). The beach is nice & clean in this town & the water very swimmable.
Night life: Guava, Sailing Club
Alert- don't go to Vinpearl. It's a tourist trap, owned by a Viet-Russian expat, and really a cover up for a prostitution company. It's awful.
- Must eat Nem Nuong at đừơng Lê Lợi. Just say that to the taxi driver (make sure you get a Mai Linh (green taxi) in Nha Trang. Fyi, be careful of that taxi brand in Saigon, they can be shady sometimes. There're two famous restaurants, one that takes up two different shop fronts and one little one. I've heard the little one is more delicious but I've tried the larger place & it's really yummy too. The banh trang is a little hard & chewy, but that's how it's supposed to be.
- Seafood Bánh Xèo mực & tôm at Tháp Bà street. Very yummy seafood banh xeo. It's not really a restaurant... more of a little shop on the corner with kiddy chairs & incredibly inexpensive. Just ask the Taxi driver (Mai Linh) to take you to eat Banh Xeo at Thap Ba street.
Hue: We didn't visit but on my next trip, I'm definitely headed here. They have the best cuisine in all of Vietnam, IMHO (in my humble opinion).
Ha Noi:
Very crowded, narrow, chaotic city. Cooler weather but much more smog than any other part of Vietnam. We didn't stay here long (2 nights), but we did have some delicious food (twice):
Chả Cá Lã Vọng on Chả Cá street. There are multiple restaurants of this name... you have to go to the one that looks kinda greenish... when you go upstairs (that's where all the dining takes place) you know you're at the right place if it's crowded. It's also a little dirty looking.
Ha Long Bay:We took a 3 day, 2 night (1 night stay on the boat, 1 night stay on Cat Ba island) cruise through Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay & Cat Ba Island. Really fun. www.vega-travel.com. We paid $332 as a couple for the Deluxe room. The other folks on the boat had the cheaper rooms... they seemed fine with their rooms too. There are certainly more up-scale junk boat cruises out there... You definitely get what you pay for. We liked this cruise because of the company (younger tourists around our age) and our tour guide Duc (hilarious).
The ride from Ha Noi to Ha Long Bay is a little rough if you get car sick easily (roads in vietnam can be slow, heavy congestion, a little tumultuous) try to get the front seat because otherwise, you're packed like sardines in the back. Some people left the cruise after only 2 days, though if you stay a 3rd day, you get to kayak/swim in the quieter Lan Ha Bay & also hike & bike around Cat Ba Island. Well worth it. The cruise also included food... the food on the boat was so-so. All the fried things were delicious. The others... so-so.
Sapa:
The trek from Ha Noi to Sapa is not for yuppies. It's an 8 hour slow, loud & bumpy overnight train ride to Lao Cai, and then a 1 hr windy drive from Lao Cai to Sapa. The restaurants we ate at were not particularly tasty & the Hmong people are terribly exploited... Eh, I would probably not venture back there again. You can get very cheap very good foot/shoulder/head hour-long massages for about $7. Pretty amazing.
Tuesday, December 18, 2012
Quick overnight in Can Tho
My family here in Vietnam (& in the US) worry that we are planning to travel the entirety of Vietnam on our own... without the guidance of a tour guide. For us, tours are just too pre-planned... with little free time & so-so food. To be fair, there's a lot to worry about when you're traveling here. As the Lonely Planet guide book offers, there are many ways for you to part with your money unexpectedly in Vietnam. This is very true, but I think also somewhat part of the experience that you have to accept when you're out adventuring...
And so my uncle arranges for a driver to take us (R, myself & two friends) down to explore the Mekong. A very quick trip... a couple hours at Cu Chi Tunnels, which was formerly an extensive underground network of tunnels that the communist soldiers used to hide from the Americans during the Vietnam war. Then a couple hours at a snake research center, then an over-nighter in Can tho to see the floating marketing. It takes us about 5-6 hours to finally make it on our detoured trip from Saigon to Can Tho.
Roads in Vietnam are much improved from 12 years ago but traveling by car still has its commonalities with my prior trip. The drivers are just as ruthless as ever. Road signs and signals are mere suggestions for driving guidelines... it's all about honking your horn here and trying to get in front of the driver in front of you. Every man for himself. This seeming chaotic transportation system somehow works... And as a passenger, it can be a bit unnerving.
Cu Chi Tunnels
The Snake Research Center
A lot of sleepy/angry looking snakes and sad looking animals at this center. Peta would not be happy with this research center. Below - sad looking sloth.
Can Tho
Is a beautiful city intertwined with the Mekong Delta. The image below is from the top of our hotel in Can Tho, very close to the waterfront. 12 years ago, this bridge was not here... and I traveled to Can Tho via car & barges... the alternative way to travel that's much faster and more convenient is via Hydrophoil. For the next trip...
Floating Market
Found the best bowl of ramen for 10,000 VND ($0.50) at the floating market.
And so my uncle arranges for a driver to take us (R, myself & two friends) down to explore the Mekong. A very quick trip... a couple hours at Cu Chi Tunnels, which was formerly an extensive underground network of tunnels that the communist soldiers used to hide from the Americans during the Vietnam war. Then a couple hours at a snake research center, then an over-nighter in Can tho to see the floating marketing. It takes us about 5-6 hours to finally make it on our detoured trip from Saigon to Can Tho.
Roads in Vietnam are much improved from 12 years ago but traveling by car still has its commonalities with my prior trip. The drivers are just as ruthless as ever. Road signs and signals are mere suggestions for driving guidelines... it's all about honking your horn here and trying to get in front of the driver in front of you. Every man for himself. This seeming chaotic transportation system somehow works... And as a passenger, it can be a bit unnerving.
Cu Chi Tunnels
Aside from the propaganda about the US during the Vietnam war, the tunnels are an interesting sight. Hard to imagine 40 people living in a tiny underground tunnel room for a month during war time. Here's the big american trying to fit into one of the tunnel openings.
The Snake Research Center
A lot of sleepy/angry looking snakes and sad looking animals at this center. Peta would not be happy with this research center. Below - sad looking sloth.
Can Tho
Is a beautiful city intertwined with the Mekong Delta. The image below is from the top of our hotel in Can Tho, very close to the waterfront. 12 years ago, this bridge was not here... and I traveled to Can Tho via car & barges... the alternative way to travel that's much faster and more convenient is via Hydrophoil. For the next trip...
Floating Market
Found the best bowl of ramen for 10,000 VND ($0.50) at the floating market.
Saigon week 1
I'm writing this post 4 weeks after my arrival in Saigon.
The airport is much cleaner and more spacious than I remembered. & despite warnings of corruption & such at the airport, I breeze through customs & security without even a mention of "money for coffee" - so different from my experience 12 years ago.
& just outside, in the large crowd of folks waiting for arrivals, I see my uncle, who hasn't changed much all these years. He looks a lot like my dad, so pretty easy to recognize. I arrived late in the evening, just after 10 pm. I wheel my luggage over to my uncle and we walk towards a taxi. He asks the driver, how much? The driver says, 200,000. My uncle shakes his head and we walk to a different section. Again, he asks the price, and this time seems more agreeable. Bargaining is such an integral part of this Vietnamese culture... only the beginning.
At my uncle's house, I get settled into my cousin's room for the next couple nights. The house is tall and narrow. There are 4 stories - the bottom front room is rented out during the day to a group of ladies who sell clothing. The back of the first floor hosts the kitchen. My aunt's sister and brother-in-law & mother live in the two rooms on the second floor and my uncle, his wife and two sons live in the two rooms on the third floor. The fourth floor is a roof-top garden and also has an area for washing and drying clothing.
The house was recently built about 5 years ago, but its walls are covered in grime, and show the evidence of a tropical climate and what looks like crayon/marker drawings of young kids.
In the middle of the night, I'm awakened by the sound of a neighborhood rooster crowing... every 2 or 3 minutes... by morning, I'm irritable and tired. The rooster had an active night. Sigh.Only 1 more night of this before I head to the quietness of a hotel.
In the Vietnamese culture, it's not proper for two unmarried people to travel together. In fact, according to Vietnamese law, it's unlawful for two unmarried people to stay in the same hotel room together (if at least one of the two is a Vietnamese citizen). Fortunately, this rule does not apply to us, so we're in the clear.
The airport is much cleaner and more spacious than I remembered. & despite warnings of corruption & such at the airport, I breeze through customs & security without even a mention of "money for coffee" - so different from my experience 12 years ago.
& just outside, in the large crowd of folks waiting for arrivals, I see my uncle, who hasn't changed much all these years. He looks a lot like my dad, so pretty easy to recognize. I arrived late in the evening, just after 10 pm. I wheel my luggage over to my uncle and we walk towards a taxi. He asks the driver, how much? The driver says, 200,000. My uncle shakes his head and we walk to a different section. Again, he asks the price, and this time seems more agreeable. Bargaining is such an integral part of this Vietnamese culture... only the beginning.
At my uncle's house, I get settled into my cousin's room for the next couple nights. The house is tall and narrow. There are 4 stories - the bottom front room is rented out during the day to a group of ladies who sell clothing. The back of the first floor hosts the kitchen. My aunt's sister and brother-in-law & mother live in the two rooms on the second floor and my uncle, his wife and two sons live in the two rooms on the third floor. The fourth floor is a roof-top garden and also has an area for washing and drying clothing.
The house was recently built about 5 years ago, but its walls are covered in grime, and show the evidence of a tropical climate and what looks like crayon/marker drawings of young kids.
In the middle of the night, I'm awakened by the sound of a neighborhood rooster crowing... every 2 or 3 minutes... by morning, I'm irritable and tired. The rooster had an active night. Sigh.Only 1 more night of this before I head to the quietness of a hotel.
In the Vietnamese culture, it's not proper for two unmarried people to travel together. In fact, according to Vietnamese law, it's unlawful for two unmarried people to stay in the same hotel room together (if at least one of the two is a Vietnamese citizen). Fortunately, this rule does not apply to us, so we're in the clear.
Monday, September 24, 2012
Prior Experience
My previous trips to Vietnam happened 16 and 12 years ago. On my first trip, I was 17 years old. I could go into details about my experience (but I'll save myself from repeating all of the embarrassing details of a teenager). I do remember stepping off the plane and getting hit by the humidity and heat, and a very distinct smell that I've grown to associate with the country. I do miss this smell.
It was July of 1996 when I first arrived to Sa`i Go`n. I was shocked & surprised by the poverty and unprepared to see the stark contrasts between rich and poor, side-by-side. And the religiousness of both the country and my family. I spent four weeks traveling with my family (American and Vietnamese) from Saigon to Rat Gia, to Da Lat and back to Saigon. At the beginning of that trip, I wanted to go home after just a week. By the end of it, I could have easily stayed another month. The food was amazing, among my favorite dishes were a caramelized pork dish called thịt kho eaten at a tiny road-side restaurant on the way from Saigon to Da Lat and another called Ba'nh Xe`o in Saigon.
Four years later, I returned to Saigon, with my sister and two friends. We spent two weeks in Nha Trang and two weeks in Saigon. We did some charity/volunteer work with the indigenous folks in the mountains by Nha Trang and then my sister and I spent two weeks with my family in Saigon. I developed a taste for soda chanh (lemon soda) and also was introduced to an amazing dish call Banh Trang Phoi Xuong (thin sheets of rice dried over bones, used to wrap vermicelli noodles, boiled pork, herbs & dipped with an aromatic fish sauce).
The experiences from both trips were so memorable, though I'm sure my memory of them has changed over time. This time, I'll keep this blog to help me organize my memories & experiences.
I'm curious to see what it'll be like as an adult female, traveling in Vietnam. Partly by myself, partly with family, partly with friends, and mostly with Rob. A different perspective, a different experience. 16 years after my first trip, I'm sure I won't be able to recognize any of the places I've visited before. And I'm eager to try some of the dishes from my last trip as well as a few more dishes that are my favorites even here in the states.
It was July of 1996 when I first arrived to Sa`i Go`n. I was shocked & surprised by the poverty and unprepared to see the stark contrasts between rich and poor, side-by-side. And the religiousness of both the country and my family. I spent four weeks traveling with my family (American and Vietnamese) from Saigon to Rat Gia, to Da Lat and back to Saigon. At the beginning of that trip, I wanted to go home after just a week. By the end of it, I could have easily stayed another month. The food was amazing, among my favorite dishes were a caramelized pork dish called thịt kho eaten at a tiny road-side restaurant on the way from Saigon to Da Lat and another called Ba'nh Xe`o in Saigon.
Four years later, I returned to Saigon, with my sister and two friends. We spent two weeks in Nha Trang and two weeks in Saigon. We did some charity/volunteer work with the indigenous folks in the mountains by Nha Trang and then my sister and I spent two weeks with my family in Saigon. I developed a taste for soda chanh (lemon soda) and also was introduced to an amazing dish call Banh Trang Phoi Xuong (thin sheets of rice dried over bones, used to wrap vermicelli noodles, boiled pork, herbs & dipped with an aromatic fish sauce).
The experiences from both trips were so memorable, though I'm sure my memory of them has changed over time. This time, I'll keep this blog to help me organize my memories & experiences.
I'm curious to see what it'll be like as an adult female, traveling in Vietnam. Partly by myself, partly with family, partly with friends, and mostly with Rob. A different perspective, a different experience. 16 years after my first trip, I'm sure I won't be able to recognize any of the places I've visited before. And I'm eager to try some of the dishes from my last trip as well as a few more dishes that are my favorites even here in the states.
P & P
Planning & preparation for a 5 week trip to Vietnam. Where does one begin?
I'm a planner & worrier by nature (the former project manager in me). I love to travel, but I hate to plan for travel. It really stresses me out. I thought I'd make it easier on myself by having a travel agent help me book hotels & the tour. Though after a few exchanges with a travel agent based in SF, I realized a few things:
Things accomplished 3 months in advance:
Things to do in the next couple weeks
I'm a planner & worrier by nature (the former project manager in me). I love to travel, but I hate to plan for travel. It really stresses me out. I thought I'd make it easier on myself by having a travel agent help me book hotels & the tour. Though after a few exchanges with a travel agent based in SF, I realized a few things:
- It's not cheaper to book hotels via travel agents. The travel agent added about 5-10% on top of hotel price and assured me that this was the cheapest rate, that it's high season, and I would not find anything less than what she found. Sounded like a typical sales pitch to me. After a quick check online on the hotel websites, I found much cheaper rates and plenty of availability.
- Booking with Travel agents means following the tourist herd... sightseeing, tour-buses, or very expensive private tours of the same type of thing. Very boring.
- To customize a fun (more adventurous) yet comfortable 5 weeks in Vietnam, I would have to do the planning myself.
My natural instinct is to book my hotels in advance. A balance of 3.5 - 5 star hotels... but there's a part of me that dares me to be a little more adventurous...
Things accomplished 3 months in advance:
- Dates: 5 weeks Nov-Dec
- Round-trip flights booked: SFO to Seoul to SGN
- Vaccines: Tdap & Flu
- Agree on rough itinerary
Things to do in the next couple weeks
- Apply for 3 month visa
- Book hotels w/ free cancellation
- Book Ha Long Bay cruise/junk boat tour
- Book domestic flights
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